HYDRATION
Water is important for jumpers. Water dishes are NOT recommended as they can fall in, get stuck and drown. Lightly misting the container every 3 or so day is sufficient. It is important to let the misted water dry out so no mold gets into the enclosure. Adding moss, paper towel, or cotton balls can help retain humidity and give your spider a place to take a sip. Just make sure to change it if it gets moldy.

DIET
Feeding your spider depends a lot on size. Smaller slings will eat several fruit flies a day. Jumpers are formidable predators and can easily take down prey their own size, or even double their size! Slings should be fed 2-3 times per week. When they get ready to molt (they’ll be fat as a tick first), they may refuse food before webbing themselves up for the big change. As your spider grows, you can feed them larger prey, and less often. Adult spiders only usually eat once a week. Once you’re spider has outgrown fruit flies, there’s a wide variety of feeders available. Flies of all types are always a favorite (house, blue bottle, black soldier), as well as worms (meal, wax, silk), roaches (dubia, red runners), and crickets (sized appropriately). NEVER leave uneaten crickets or mealworms in a spider’s enclosure. They have mouth parts and can hurt your spider, especially if it goes into molt. Jumpers will eat just about anything that hops, flies, or crawls. Remember, variety is the spice of life! Be careful with wild-caught prey. They can be contaminated with pesticides or parasites.
*SUNLIGHT. If you are having trouble getting a jumper to eat, put them in the window with the food. Sunlight and warmth will stimulate their appetite. Just don't leave them in the window and go out, you must be there to monitor the heat and the sun. Bright lights will also do the trick.

ENCLOSURES
The size of the container should be relative to your spider. Bigger is not always better. I recommend keeping small slings in smaller containers (like clear cups) to make it easier for them to find food AND for you to find them! A wadded-up square of paper towel provides humidity as well as lots of little crevices for your baby to explore and hide in. Taller is better usually, as jumpers are considered arboreal. Most of the time, they’ll make their webbing hammock at the top of the container. If you’re still at the deli-cup stage, store it with the lid on the bottom. I suggest a container that opens from the side rather than the top to keep from disturbing your spider’s house every time you open the enclosure. Aquarium decorations work well inside of enclosures. They are easy to clean, they're pretty, and Spiders enjoy climbing and weaving all over them!

DECOR
You can decorate with a wide range of objects for any taste! It doesn’t take much to make your jumper a happy camper. They like to climb and enjoy hidey-holes. Bark/sticks and silk flowers are an easy way to deck out the new digs. I recommend hot gluing down anything that may fall and squish your spider. Substrate (dirt) is optional. Since jumpers rarely spend time on the ground, they don’t *need* any substrate. However, substances like coco-fiber can help maintain humidity and add a nice visual element. Aquarium gravel is easy to clean, comes in every color, and can add weight to your enclosure. It’s best to not use anything artificial that could be toxic - anything with a strong odor may kill or shorten their life.
*An inexpensive Hygrometer can be purchased online; this will measure your enclosures humidity and temperature.

MOLTING
As a jumper grows, they will molt every few weeks, depending on their appetite. When they molt they shed their exoskeleton. This is a very stressful time for your spider. After the feeding frenzy, they will go into pre molt. This is when they web themselves in for a week, sometimes longer. Don’t freak out, your spider is OK! If a spider is in their hammock, LEAVE THEM BE. Even if they are not molting, and just inside, LEAVE THEM BE. Do not push a spider out of their hammock. If you are concerned about if they are alive in there, gently blow on said hammock, or very lightly mist the area around them, and they will usually shift inside.
***Humidity is very important for a spider who is molting***

It’s going to seem like the whole process is taking forever. You’re going to start wondering if your spider is ok. Molting takes time, and every spider is different. The closer they get to maturity, the longer the process takes. After the molt itself actually happens, the spider will stay in the hammock a few more days. This is because the new exoskeleton must harden. LEAVE THEM BE. They will come out when they are ready, and they will look AWESOME. You can't rush perfection, and your spider is getting a new outfit. After your spider comes out and shows himself (or herself) off to you, make sure to tell them how proud you are of them, and how amazing they look. It will give them confidence. Follow that by giving them water, because they will be thirsty!!!

Jumping Spiders stop molting once they reach maturity.